We exchanged enough information, with the help of my iPad photos, to discover that the city my grandfather grew up in in the early 1900s is Elton's hometown! To have bumped into each other in one of the largest cities in the world seemed quite remarkable.
My grandfather, Horace Norman Sibley, center, with his parents and sisters, approx 1906.
Our tour group at the Ming Tombs.
Saturday I flew to Dandong, on the northern banks of the Yalu River, which forms the border between China and North Korea. In addition to growing up in South Korea, for the last eight years I've been working on a young adult novel set in North Korea. (The day I was leaving on this trip, I received some very exciting news about this novel - TBA in a future post!) I wanted to travel to this part of China to trace the steps of my fictional characters, who in the book's climax end up on a section of the Great Wall, called Hu Shan (Tiger Mountain), not far from Dandong.
At night, Dandong is aglow in neon, while across the river Sinuiju shows only a few pinpricks of light.
Dandong is where I really entered the Chinese tale mentioned above: On my first day, I explored transportation options to Hu Shan, successfully locating the train station, the local bus station across from it, and the exact bus that would take me to the Wall, using a combination of Pictionary and Charades. Unfortunately, when I got there the next morning, I found that the next bus didn't leave for 2 hours. Fortunately, there were two Chinese men who were also going that direction, so the bus station official hailed us a taxi. Unfortunately, when we got to Hu Shan, we discovered that the Great Wall was closed for the day! Though I indicated I'd like to get out anyway to walk around, the taxi driver just sped by, giving me reassuring gestures. Fortunately, it turned out that the two other passengers were looking for an up-close view of the DPRK, and we ended up on a speedboat, cruising down the river into North Korean waters!
A North Korean village on an island in the Yalu River. We are traveling between the island and mainland DPRK - clearly in North Korean waters. The woman herding goats waved and smiled when I called hello to her in Korean.
I was able to climb part way up the Wall, just as I'd imagined, and sit to paint a panoramic view of the North Korean countryside.
All in all, an amazing adventure, full of good fortune!